History of Chanel Perfume: Everything you need to know about the maison’s most famous fragrances

An olfactory icon, N°5 requires no introduction. Radical to the nth degree, its bottle design broke tradition with its clean lines and rounded corners. The scent is capped with an emerald-cut stopper – a shape reminiscent of the Place Vendôme, a sight visible from Gabrielle’s Hôtel Ritz Paris suite balcony.

Created by Ernest Beaux in 1921, the scent revolutionised traditional approaches towards perfumery. Seeking “a woman’s fragrance that smells like a woman”, Gabrielle bypassed the idea that a scent had to be wedded to the scent of a single flower. Instead, she requested “an artificial fragrance like a dress, something crafted”, a composition that had been carefully designed. 

“I am a seamstress. I don’t want rose or lily-of-the-valley, I want a composed fragrance,” she explained. Painstakingly superstitious, it is said that Gabrielle named the scent after the fifth sample that was presented to her, as she thought of the number five as her lucky charm.

Launched one year after N°5 in 1922, N°22 is a variation of its predecessor, possessing a splendidly smooth soapiness. It was part of the original line-up from which Gabrielle picked out N°5 as the brand’s first perfume launch.

Directly inspired by the camellia flower, in 1925 Gardénia paid tribute to one of the maison’s emblems. The camellia had always been present in Gabrielle’s design work – worn in buttonholes, pinned to hat brims, and immortalised in jewellery – making it the perfect floral muse, despite it bearing no scent.

Created in 1928, Bois des Iles is warm and sensual, with an enchanting energy that is inspired by the heady frenzy of Roaring 20s jazz clubs.

The last fragrance launched and worn by Gabrielle Chanel, N°19 pays tribute to her birth date: 19 August 1883. Unfazed by protestations by those around her, in 1970 the brand’s founder asked Henri Robert for a composition with a personality equal in strength to that of N°5.

A decadent ambery composition created by Jacques Polge, Coco, launched in 1984, symbolises Gabrielle’s multi-faceted outlook on life. Her propensity for all things baroque starkly contrasted her understated fashion designs.

Fresh and clear, the immensely popular Coco Mademoiselle was released in 2001 with the intention of reaching a younger audience. Keira Knightley was the face of the fragrance for many years. The scent has a certain duality to it, it’s sparkly and bright on account of the citrus elements, but the base is creamy and comforting, composed of tonka bean and Bourbon vanilla.

The first Chanel fragrance to be presented in a round bottle, Chance Eau de Parfum was introduced in 2005, again created by Jacques Polge. Paying tribute to Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s superstitious nature, the scent is inspired by the idea of fortune and unpredictability. A floral fragrance that blends notes of pink pepper, jasmine and amber patchouli with lacings of musks and vanilla, this scent holds a bold essence to awaken a burning-hot aura that feels unapologetically feminine and irresistibly sultry.

As it goes, only Gabrielle’s close friends had the privilege of referring to her by her nickname Coco, otherwise, the brand’s founder was addressed as Mademoiselle by her seamstresses.

Released in 2021, Le Lion (part of Chanel’s Les Exclusifs collection) was directly inspired by Gabrielle’s star sign. Exuding protective power, Chanel’s majestic motif is alluded to via Olivier Polge’s distinctive amber elixir.

The newest feminine fragrance from the Maison, Splendide is the playful younger sister in the Chance family. Crafted by Olivier Polge, this fruity-floral scent opens with a vibrant raspberry accord, softened by delicate notes of rose and violet. At its heart, geranium blooms alongside a whisper of powdery iris, while a cedar and white musk accord grounds the fragrance – creating a whirlwind of splendour that’s both radiant and refined.